Chef Mixes Food and Charity for Saucy Summer Nights
You see him waiting tables most nights at Grappolo’s: the blue button-down shirt, spiky black hair, compulsory double kiss, and a “Ciao Bella!” that reminds us time and again why Italians own romance in spades. What most don’t know is that this particular Italian, Michele Mancuso (pronounced Mey-kay-lay), leads somewhat of a double life – waiter by trade, chef and philanthropist by passion.
When Mancuso first arrived in
America from Toscana, Italy, he planned to open a wine and tapas bar in Manhattan just like the one he had owned in
Florence. Twelve days later the Twin Towers fell and forced a decision:
go home or head west. He made a call to Leonardo Curti, his hometown
friend from La Calabria, Italy now living in Santa Ynez and co-owner of
Grappolo’s. He secured a job as a waiter and days later moved to
California.
“I moved to Santa
Ynez thinking I would regroup, create a new plan, and then move on, do more traveling.”
Mancuso says, still not believing that someone so enamored with new horizons
could stay in one place for six years.
Mancuso
attributes his resistance to leaving the Santa Ynez Valley to the fact that
Santa Ynez is reminiscent of the old Tuscany he studied in his school history
books. “It’s like going back three hundred years to when the Italian wine
country was just getting a name for itself. That’s what it feels like here. The
people are nice, it’s beautiful…it feels like home.”
Perhaps that feeling
of home has been heightened in part because Mancuso recently dusted off his old
recipes, sharpened his knives and launched what will become a series of summer tapas parties benefiting various local
charities. The idea was one Mancuso had tested in Tuscany to wild success, and
after hosting a local cooking class at Roblar Winery—that could have sold
out twice over—he figured the charity events would draw just as much
interest. And he was right; his first tapas party also held at Roblar Winery, hosted
more than 70 people, nearly twice the attendance he anticipated. It was then
that he knew his charity events would extend beyond the borders of Italy.

Mancuso demonstrates a technique to his cooking class
Because Mancuso attended
the Firenze Culinary School, the Florentine Cordon Bleu and later studied in Seville,
Spain the anatomy of his parties are built something like this: a themed dinner
menu of French, Spanish and, or Italian tapas (a mind-boggling assortment of appetizers,
traditionally served in Spain with an afternoon cocktail before a late-evening
dinner); Paella, a traditional rice dish the color of saffron originally from
Valencia, Spanish and often made with meats and seafood; wine, wine and more
wine from local and European growers; live music from the European Riviera, and
live flamenco dancers. It is a combination certain to insure Mancuso’s will be
the sauciest charity event this side of the Atlantic.
Each party will
have a different theme, slightly different menu and wine selection, also
different musicians, “But there is always Paella.” Mancuso says, “It’s my
signature dish.” A dish he is proud to have perfected at the source, in Spain.
When asked what
ignited the idea for the Tuscan-version of the charity dinner, Mancuso
explains, “I wanted people to have a good time, drink some nice wine and try
something different, something authentic from a particular region of Europe.” Moving
to California hasn’t altered that simple notion. In fact, he boils it down to a
straightforward explanation, “I love cooking and I love people.” He says this almost
as an aside to the larger purpose of serving a community he has known for only
a handful of years. In his opinion, his
parties make a perfect platform to exercise both his passions.
There is already
much anticipation for the next event to be held at Frederik’s Court in Solvang,
July 29th. The benefiting charity is still not decided, but the new
Cabernet Bistro will co-host the event, opening their kitchen to Mancuso’s
culinary talent. Tapas
will be served in the courtyard where there is ample room for an extended guest
list of up to 200 people.
If you’re thinking
your summer calendar is too full to squeeze in another event, think
again—Mancuso’s tapas parties might just be here and then gone for good. When asked
about his future plans it is quickly revealed that Mancuso has once again been
bitten by ever-persistent wanderlust. After the summer parties have come to a
close, Mancuso has been offered a head chef position aboard a newly fashioned 172’
sail boat that is just now getting its sea legs in the Mediterranean for a trip
around the world.
Perhaps he and
his tapas will be
back in a year’s time, perhaps not. And so it must be said that summer 2007 may
go down in the Santa Ynez history books as a special one to remember thanks to Michele
Mancuso’s charity tapas.
“The wine, the music, the food…” we will say, as Mancuso heads off to new
horizon’s, leaving us longing for a Tuscan renaissance of another kind. For event information email Michele at
mancusomch@aol.com.