Tasting the Ratings

Tasting the Ratings

 

Consumers select their wines based on a myriad of considerations. For some, a pretty label is enough to create a sale. For others, a certain region or varietal is all that is required to entice them into trying a new product. Then there are those that buy wine based on the expert’s opinion. Although I believe that an experienced wine professional’s opinion is worthy of respect and that opinion should hold at least some weight, my opinion is that truly great wine is in the eye (or should I say palette) of the beholder. However, for the novice wine enthusiast, ratings can be extremely helpful, at the very least, a great way to avoid selecting a bad product. This being the case, I felt the need to check out the current selection offered by Stolpman winery. They received some very flattering ratings from Robert Parker (probably the most influential wine critic in the world) in 2006.

 

’05 L’Avion

This wine is named for the old airstrip where the Sauvignon Blanc and Roussanne grapes used to produce it are grown. This is a great blending of these two grapes. Sauvignon Blanc contributes minerality and wonderful floral aromatics, while the Roussanne adds complexity through its intoxicating sandalwood incense aromatics that in effect thicken and intensify the other qualities. The seven months of aging in new-oak barrels produces a mouth feel with enough oak to stand up to the complex nose.

 

’05 Rosato

Regular readers of this column know that I am not ashamed to admit that I enjoy well made rosé. Stolpman is yet another local winery that has committed itself to producing a complex and dry rosé. Unfortunately, this will be the last vintage for at least a little while, so get some while you still can. This wine is dark, by rosé standards and the oak-aging process creates a wonderful creaminess. This is as full bodied as rosé gets.  

 

’03 Poetry in Red

This is Stolpman’s red field blend. Because of this, it contains many different varietals. Rhone, Italian and Bourdeux varietals all come together to create something unique. A good field-blended wine should be fairly straightforward, ready to drink upon release, and good with a variety of food — in essence, a table wine. This wine does that job very well. A balanced mouth feel with enough tannins and acid allows it to shine alongside a tasty meal. 

 

’04 Sangiovese

Strawberry, vanilla, and some spice. Red fruit is the backbone of this wine, but as is the case with other well-made, fruit-forward wines, the red fruit is backed by layers of complexity. Stolpman’s Sangiovese was half the equation in the ’04 La Croce, which Robert Parker gave rave reviews to (94 points).

 

’03 Nebbiolo

The huge tannins of Nebbiolo often scare Central Coast consumers away from this wine, but I urge everyone to give it a try. The trick to enjoying Nebbiolo is flavor-filled, savory food. The Stolpman gang likes it with aged dry cheeses and gamey meats. When paired with food, this wine’s dark fruit qualities and earthy aromatics can be very pleasurable, and you might find that the food tastes that much better as well. Another option is to cellar this one for a while and let the tannins relax.  

 

’04 Estate Syrah

The gang at Stolpman like to call this its introductory Syrah (mainly because of it’s lower price point), but don’t be fooled. This is a well-made Syrah that Robert Parker gave a 93 rating to. Five percent grenache is blended into the wine to bring out its luscious Rhone quality. It’s fruit-forward, but with more than just the usual dark berries. I was pleased to find notes of figs and a bit of smoke.     

 

Stolpman’s tasting room is located at 1659 Copenhagen Dr., Suite C in Solvang. They are open 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. daily and stay open until 6 p.m. on Fridays.