Kabuki brings sushi to the land of smorgasbord
A Japanese restaurant in a Danish town seems incongruous -- until you flip it around and look at it through the eyes of Kabuki owners Shin and Deborah Kuboyama.
“It’s the basic law of
economics: supply and demand. We wanted to offer really excellent Japanese
food, but Santa Barbara was saturated, and Solvang just seemed perfect,”
Deborah said.
Shin and Deborah had been
long-time Santa Barbara residents, working respectively as chefs in various
establishments, when they began to look for a place to call their own.
Japanese seemed a natural
for the couple, especially with Shin’s heritage and his experience working with
sushi masters in Tokyo as a teenager.
Shin’s restaurant career
started almost accidentally. He was an aspiring musician, hungry and broke; the
restaurant life provided stability and at least one meal a day. Also, his job
cutting countless heads of cabbage by hand, day in and day out, was
unexpectedly giving Shin what he calls “knife skills” that would prove
invaluable in his future career.
Shin realized he had
developed a talent with a knife when he emigrated to the U.S. in 1984 and began
working under someone he considers one of Santa Barbara’s master sushi chefs.
“I watched his employees and
realized I could do what they were doing -- only better.” Shin said.
But Shin still had a lot to
learn, and confesses that in the fourteen years he worked for his mentor (for
whom he sought confidentiality), he learned how to make and present sushi in
America the right way, that is, how to honor the tradition while still
satisfying the American palate.
Shin and Deborah met in
1986, during Santa Barbara’s lesser-known days, but nevertheless in a time when
the 1980s’ decadence was brimming, and the town knew no culinary bounds.
Deborah worked as a chef at the El Encanto, San Ysidro Ranch and various
establishments that bejeweled the streets of Santa Barbara. The two were
married in 1991, around the time when Shin realized he had not only found love
with Deborah, but he had also found love in sushi.
“For the longest time, I
just looked at it as a job, but then I realized I really liked it -- I was good
at it. My interest in mastering the art just went deeper and deeper,” Shin
said.
It would be almost eleven
years before Shin and Deborah would realize the dream of owning a restaurant;
but they admit those were years of paying dues, working hard, and learning
every inch of the restaurant business. In 2002, the existing Kabuki Restaurant
went up for sale and the Kuboyamas jumped at the chance to move to the quaint
town of Solvang.
“There was no doubt we would
have a niche. No one was doing Japanese in the land of Smorgasbord. We thought
it was a great opportunity to offer something unexpected and in demand,”
Deborah said.
In demand is right. Most
weekends, both the restaurant and outdoor patio are packed, and patrons are
often willing to wait upward of an hour for a table. During the week, wait
times are often nonexistent and diners can still choose from an extensive menu
and a full board of “specials.”
“What surprises people, and
keeps them coming back, is the quality. We buy only the best fish, and only
what is freshest,” Shin said. “I opened my doors with confidence in the fact
that we had nothing but quality. I will tell people we’re sold out of something
rather than have lesser quality, just so we can offer it on the menu,” he said.
Shin runs the sushi bar with
a few assistants and therefore makes every roll, and inspects every plate that
leaves the kitchen. He is driven by consistent quality.
“If I see it go out, it has
my stamp of approval,” Shin said. That means diners might have to wait a few
extra minutes for their orders, but it is always worth the wait. This is
evidenced by his faithful local patrons, many of whom consider Kabuki their
favorite valley haunt.
Counted among Kabuki’s fans
are young and old alike. Shin and Deborah have designed the menu to be family
friendly. “It’s not strictly a sushi bar, it’s a Japanese restaurant with
something for everyone,” Deborah said.
Beyond the unique sushi,
sashimi and specialty menu, diners will find a full kitchen menu, such as spicy
chicken, teriyaki chicken, tempura, soft shell crab, fish dishes and any other
accessible offerings.
“We cater to the extremely
adventurous, as well as the less adventurous,” Shin explained. “We don’t want
to scare anyone off; at heart, we are a family restaurant,” he said.
With this in mind, the
Kuboyamas mix traditional Japanese with an American family twist. They named
most of the sushi rolls after their employees, whom they consider family, and
they also offer a wide range of prices on the menu, not just the money-making
items.
“It’s good to love what you
do,” Shin said, “And we really do.”