It’s compulsory. It’s part of the mystique.

 

It’s that certain something that is all his own and ensures he’s not like all the rest. And if he gets it just right, a chef’s secrets provide that special something you can’t get at home, or anywhere else, and it becomes the reason that patrons cross the threshold of his restaurant week after week.

 

So what is a chef without his secrets? Just ask Leonardo Curti, co-owner of Trattoria Grappolo and co-author of the cookbook, Trattoria Grappolo: Simple Recipes for Traditional Italian Cuisine.

 

Amidst the 224 high-gloss pages, Curti not only opens the doors to his beloved restaurant on Sagunto Street in Santa Ynez, he brings us right into the kitchen, straps us into an apron, and spills all the secrets to his coveted menu and his country’s most prized recipes -- one pinch, dash and heaping teaspoon at a time.

 

“I have no secrecy,” Curti explained, “I want people to enjoy my food at home when they want, or come here to the restaurant when they want. I am not worried, because I will create more recipes and it feels good to share.”

 

Like most great chefs, Curti is constantly solicited for recipes by his local patrons. The problem is he never really followed one. His restaurant menu is simple, straight forward country Italian faire, created more out of instinct and gusto than set ingredients with fixed measurements.

 

Therein was Curti’s greatest challenge in creating a highly-anticipated cookbook -- translating intuition into a user-friendly guide that guaranteed even a novice cook would achieve something extraordinary.

 

Challenge met. In its first printing, Trattoria Grappolo: Simple Recipes for Traditional Italian Cuisine already has become one of publisher Gibbs Smith’s best selling books. The first printing sold out within weeks; a second printing has been ordered, and a third printing most likely will be in demand before Christmas.

 

James O. Fraioli, co-author of Trattoria Grappolo, said his greatest enjoyment in helping to write the book was realizing this cookbook could translate across America. “At first Leonardo wanted to self-publish, but I knew this was the kind of cookbook that could have incredible, widespread appeal. Three Italian brothers, authentic, traditional recipes, incredible wines -- this was destined to be more than just a local novelty,” Fraioli said.

Born in Calabria, Italy, the three brothers he’s referring to are Leonardo, and the younger Alfonso and Giorgio. In their early days, the brothers went separate ways to pursue their culinary talents. Leonardo moved to Tuscany, taken in by the Luppoli family and groomed in the trappings of their popular Malborghetto Restaurant.

 

It was under their direction that Leonardo learned the value of service and quality. He later went on to establish Pane Caldo in Beverly Hills, and worked as a chef at the distinguished Cicada Restaurant in Los Angeles, followed by the legendary Farfalla Restaurant in Aspen, Colorado. 

 

Alfonso, on the other hand, got his start in Pietra Paula, Italy, as a baker. He went on to serve in the Italian military as head cook for a high-ranking division in Naples and Bologna, and later moved to Switzerland to test new techniques for growing produce.

 

In 1997, Leonardo, Alfonso and business partner Daniele Serra started Trattoria Grappolo (meaning: a cluster of grapes) and have been serving traditional faire from various regions of Italy ever since. Giorgio came over from Italy just over a year ago to round out the family business and bring his own flair to the Grappolo kitchen.

 

Now the Curti brothers’ creations jump off the pages of a stunning cookbook that lacks nothing of style, originality, or irresistible recipes that would make even the most fickle foodie reach for their measuring spoons. The titles are in Italian with English translation, each complete with wine pairings from over 75 different participating local wineries. The recipes are surprisingly uncomplicated, some containing as few as five ingredients and taking only minutes to prepare.

 

There are others requiring a bit more preparation -- but not by much. Recipes such as fiori di zucca ripieni (Stuffed zucchini blossoms), and the irresistible tortelloni di zucca (tortellini with pumpkin and a sage cream sauce),  or the agnello con olive (braised lamb with olives), and for the finale, the sinful crostata di mele con gelato di vaniglia (warm caramelized apple tart with vanilla gelato). All the recipes are simple, flavorful and satisfying -- precisely what endears us to Italian cooking in the first place.

 

Ron Colone recently purchased the cookbook. “We love to go to Grappolo because of the food, and because they make us feel like family. Now, we can prepare the food we love at Grappolo for our own families in our own homes. The recipes are clear and easy, and they give us an understanding of Italian food that goes way beyond just tomato sauce and pasta,” he said.

 

“It turns everything in the refrigerator and the cupboards into the makings of a wonderful meal, and it makes me feel even more comfortable and more passionate about cooking and sharing food with people I love.”

 

Curti has dedicated the cookbook to all the chefs, guests and wineries that have supported Trattoria Grappolo over the years.

 

“This is my thank-you for all the camaraderie and support. I love this community. This is exactly where I want to be, doing exactly what I love -- cooking and entertaining,” Curti said. 

 

But even amidst the success of the cookbook, the celebrity endorsements and the publicity that no doubt will follow, Curti has managed to dole out credit where credit is due.

 

Right there on page 7, under the photo of herbs and squash blossoms and a bubbling pot of tomato sauce, he writes, “Our high expectation for quality never exceed the perfection of the ultimate purveyor, nature.”

 

Cookbooks can be ordered at Tratorria Grappolo, 3687-C Sagunto Street, Santa Ynez  or call (805)688-6899.