History
in the making with La Nogalera
Take three of the oldest orchards in the Santa Ynez valley,
combine with like-minded individuals, and shake the trees until harvested.
The result is a fabulously-flavored, estate-grown walnut oil from
La Nogalera.
The idea to create a world-class, one-of-a-kind oil sprang from a
partnership between the storied Rancho La Viña, La Nogalera ranch and Hibbits
Ranch – walnut growers all nestled in the same Santa Rita Hills
appellation made famous for award-winning Pinot Noir wines.
Each orchard is easy to spot along the corridor between Buellton
and Lompoc because of the 100-year-old trees blanketing their orchards.
The historic trees serve as a reminder that the earliest settlers
of the valley recognized superior growing conditions afforded by cooling ocean
breezes, well-drained soil composition and plenty of sunshine.
Remarkably, some of the best heritage varieties used in La
Nogalera walnut oil, like Concord, Placentia, and Lompoc, have been lost to
history and are no longer planted.
In other parts of California, these heirloom walnuts have been
replaced by newer varieties; bred for larger meat, thinner shells and higher
yields. The rich depth of flavor, though, is lost in the process.
Mary Jane Edalatpour, of La Nogalera ranch, described their start
in the business as one of serendipity.
“In 2005, we were all looking for something different to do with
our walnuts. So we went out and bought as many kinds of walnut oil as we could
find and invited friends over for tastings,” Edalatpour recalled.
In doing their homework, they discovered that larger U.S.
manufacturers produce refined oils — removing flavor, particles, and
imperfections with a petroleum process or heat. This style of manufacturing
commonly results in a thin liquid with little or no flavor and few health
benefits.
As a result of repeated testing and tasting, their own direction
became as clear as that refined oil.
“Trying both California and French oils, we discovered a
particular roasted flavor and direction that we got excited about,” said
Edalatpour.
The difference between what was typical, and what La Nogalera
wanted to do was dramatic.
“What we insisted upon was a pure oil, created in a classically
French style. The nuts are freshly harvested, hulled and shelled, immediately
roasted, then hand-pressed,” she said.
“This is the Cadillac of the oils. It’s truly of the orchard. And
that’s the difference between our oil and the other walnut oils you might find.
We didn’t want to use any refined oil to water it down and make it less
expensive. We wanted to produce the very best we could,” she added.
The team found the perfect complement to their efforts in a small
French oil maker operating in Woodland, California. Fruit from all three
ranches gets roasted, pressed and canned in one seamless operation.
“It is an amazingly tiny facility. Matthieu Kohlmeyer, owner of
the artisan oil mill who makes this for us, does a beautiful job,” said
Edalatpour.
Another factor that Edalatpour was excited about was the inherent
health benefits that walnuts and walnut oil provide.
According to the California Walnut Commission, walnuts are truly “superfood.”
They are unique among most types of foods for offering strong cardiovascular
benefits through very high levels of omega-3 and omega-6 fats, and
antioxidants. Walnut oil also has zero cholesterol and plenty of vitamin E.
In order to retain the best health benefits, quality is something
that the team takes very seriously.
“The oil is very temperature and light sensitive, so it’s important
to store it in the refrigerator. It should be kept in a tin or a dark place,”
explained Edalatpour.
“The shelf life is about 18 months, as long you keep it
refrigerated, but it’s best to use it within 6 months of opening,” she said.
From our conversation, there was one result from creating this
walnut oil that really stood out: great customer response.
“By far, the most satisfying part of this adventure is public
reaction. When we offer a taste, people say “Wow!” They love it. It’s nice to
see such an appreciation for what we are doing,” Edalatpour said.
While La Nogalera has good distribution in stores around the
valley, the local farmers’ market is a place they can meet one-on-one and
introduce customers to their artisan walnut oil.
“The farmers’ markets are loads of fun. People share recipes,
bring us information, even follow-up with e-mail. It’s a great way to teach
customers about what goes into creating our oil,” she said.
On a very personal
level, Edalatpour seems to be having the time of her life.
“I love everything about it. I really do. I love going organic. I
like the change it makes to the land. I like the birds and creatures that have
come back to the ranch. I like digging in the dirt and driving the tractor. I
can’t think of anything I would say I didn’t like to do. I just really like
farming”, she said.
As far as the future goes, Edalatpour explains that the
partnership is determined to stay very local.
“The business is based on us being located right here: in the Central
Coast region. We are going to stick to that,” she said.
Currently, she reports that oil is still only a very small part of
the business. Walnuts used for oil represent only about 10percent of their
total harvest. “As the interest in walnut oil catches on and we want to expand,
we just add more walnuts to the press,” Edalatpour explained.
So, while the business is still in its early stages, there is no
shortage of growth opportunities right in their own backyard. A backyard shared
by the family dog, a couple of cats, a hen house full of chickens and plenty of
rabbits.
La Nogalera’s Wild Rice Pilaf
1-1/2 cups uncooked wild rice
¼ cup chopped green onion
3 Tbsp. La Nogalera walnut oil
1/2 cup toasted walnuts – chopped
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice & zest optional: chopped parsley,
tarragon, or other fresh herbs
Salt, to taste.
Cook wild rice
according to package directions. Mix salt, walnut oil, lemon juice, and lemon
zest. Pour over cooked rice and mix in with green onion, toasted walnuts and
herbs.