The turkey’s
sitting in the freezer, waiting for you to thaw it out. You’re using Grandma’s
recipe for the dressing, and she’s bringing a pair of her famous pies. Your
uncle is furnishing his homemade wine, and you know your sister will make that
corn thing everybody likes. The Thanksgiving meal is shaping up to be a genuine
family event, right down to the table.
But did you ever wonder how
the foods in your pantry or freezer got there? Read the new book “Eating History,” by Andrew F. Smith, and
you’ll see what a school principal, a “hack writer,” a savvy ad man, a
housewife from Queens and others had to do with what and how we eat.
Everybody knows that the
Pilgrims held the first Thanksgiving after arriving on Plymouth Island. The
Indians were there, and they had turkey, roasts, grapes, stew and root beer
they made themselves, right?
Wrong, says Smith. Our
traditional beliefs about the first Thanksgiving are largely mythological,
created by writers and storytellers. Explorers and natives, for instance,
definitely gave thanks for blessings long before the Pilgrims even thought
about coming to the new continent, and it was common for several thanksgiving
celebrations to be held throughout the year. Furthermore, on the short list
above, turkey was the only thing likely to have been at the Pilgrim’s feast.
But let’s say your family
tradition is to eat at a restaurant on Turkey Day. You can thank a couple of
Italian immigrants for that, Smith says. Before the Delmonico brothers came to
America and opened the restaurant that became a 19th-century hotspot, dining
out wasn’t socially acceptable at all. “Good” people ate meals at home.
Oh, and by the way …
snacking was totally forbidden then, too.
Now, however, you can eat
wherever and whatever you want: Chinese, Mexican, fast-food burgers, fried
anything — even oatmeal for dinner, if that’s what you’re hungry for.
Smith says that even those foods changed our cuisine, just as our palates
changed other menus. Chop suey is not a “traditional” Chinese dish, for
example. Nachos were created in Dallas in the early 1960s. McDonald’s was
strictly a drive-up eatery prior to 1968. Dozens of foodstuffs were introduced
at world and county fairs. And your love of oatmeal began with a unique and
sensational national stunt.
Reading “Eating History” is
a little like having a slice of pie of a type you’ve never had before. The crust-cover is pretty generic but that never
matters. What’s inside looks appetizing, though, and when you bite into it, you’re
rewarded with several layers of flavor and tastiness.
By taking a look at how
small actions throughout history have influenced our dining habits and
celebratory feasts, author Andrew F. Smith appeals to foodies, cooks and
historians with his book. I particularly loved how Smith meanders through his
stories, wrapping each up with modern facts and updates.
If you’re looking for a
deliciously different book to read between courses this Thanksgiving, here’s
one you’ll like.
“Eating History” is a
toothsome delight.